Arvon in Brazil – Day Seven

Play day – before getting on the plane. ‘Be careful walking across this square. It is the most dangerous place in Rio,’ says the taxi driver as he drops me off. I am furious that he has not taken me to the gates of the ferry station, but instead elects to drop me like bait in a shark infested pool and see if I can survive the waters. ‘Good Luck,’ he shouts. ‘Sorry I no English.’

I am ending my time in Brazil as I began – by going to see yet the art gallery at Niteroy – yet another building by Oscar Niemeyer. It’s across the bay from Rio – at Niteroy – and I decide to take the ferry, to see the city from the water. Rio is beautiful from here – curve after curve of mountain enclosing sea and sky.  It is like nowhere else on earth. And Niemeyer’s building is like no building on earth. Instead, it is a spaceship which has just landed on the lip of a cliff above the ocean, jutting out, with pools of water surrounding its stem and a great sweeping floating pavement up to its front door. It is astonishing – and closed.

My final 3 hours in Brazil are spent – where else – but on Ipanema beach. Watching the world go by. Swimming in the ocean.  When I land in London 18 hours later, the world is dark and grey. There’s no sun. No light. No laughter. But deep seriousness. When I look in the mirror I notice I have a bright red nose. I poke it into the cold winter air.  Christmas Brazillian style. I have returned dressed for the festive season.